Ranting

The Grisantis

October 4th, 2009

(Author’s note: Since this writing, the Grisanti family has added three more impressive restaurants and 10 pounds to my impressive gut – and they've closed mainstay, Ronnie Grisanti's, left Spindini to others, changed Elfo's to Grisanti's, had a couple of family spats, and opened Judd Grisanti's at Ronnie's old location. Only olive oil is eternal.)

FRANK GRISANTI’S

In the Embassy Suites, Shady Grove, just off Poplar.

Another distinguished offering from the city’s most distinguished family of Italian restauranteurs. Like the late John Grisanti's (sadly, no more), like cousin Ronnie Grisanti’s, (Ronnie's fine, the restaurant is history), and like the original Grisanti’s (long gone), Frank Grisanti offers tried and true family recipes. And, like his cousin Ronnie and sons, (Spindini, Elfo's) he mixes those recipes with imaginative and impressive offerings in seafood, veal and pasta to entice and delight. Don’t miss Miss Mary’s salad (unless you don’t like garlic) and a long look at a very impressive wine list. And don’t let the hotel location fool you. The atmosphere is rich and comfortable and the service attentive and knowledgeable.

A really good choice with a really good Chianti.

DAN CONAWAY

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